Downtown Havana Deconstructed

Havana is Cuba’s largest city, comprised of several unique and distinct neighborhoods and locations that define the capital city. Powered by Northwestern University’s Knight Lab StoryMapJS software, take your own virtual tour of Havana and explore both local dives and tourist stops. These are just a snippet of the countless places well worth visiting while in this complex city.

Havana is packed with winding alleys and massive boulevards that connect the three downtown districts. We asked local habaneros for the need-to-know on navigating the city. With these insider tips, you’ll zip through Havana like a true native.

Old American cars cruise down a major boulevard in Centro Habana.

Old American cars cruise down a major boulevard in Centro Habana.

  1. Collectivos are key: When in Cuba, you’re in hitchhiking country. It’s the central part of daily Cuban circulation. These old private American cars cruise around downtown Havana, picking up single riders or whole groups. Don’t be surprised to discover that your driver is a civil engineer or a brain surgeon; collectivo drivers can make more in a day than what doctors earn in a month from the government. So, forget the government yellow taxis and hail down a Thunderbird to drive you around the city.

  2. Avoid the shiny convertibles: A collectivo may be a 1950's American car, but not every classic is a collectivo. The brightest and best-kept classic cars are usually tourist traps, offering roundtrip, top-down cruises around the city for CUC$ 5 per person or higher, which are absurdly inflated fares. Don’t be fooled by the preserved convertibles. Hop in one that shows its age.

  3. Don’t forget to haggle: Drivers may try and take advantage of you based on your touristy appearance. But a true Cubano bargains for the best price. A reasonably priced fare is anywhere from CUC$ 1 to CUC$ 3 per person, depending on distance. Remember: Gasoline is expensive; don’t low-ball too much.

  4. Learn the major streets: Like any metropolitan city, Havana offers major thoroughfares that serve as landmarks for taxi pick-up and drop-off points. Places such as Calle Obispo in Habana Vieja, el Capitolio in el Centro, and La Rampa in Vedado are some of the most central areas to hitch a ride.

  5. Vedado’s one giant grid: When Havana’s most modern commercial district was mapped in the early 1900's, it was set up in one massive grid, with odd numbered streets running northeast-northwest from the Malecón to the outskirts of the neighborhood. Lettered streets cross them, starting at Calle O just before the Malecon, switching to even numbers halfway through Vedado, and ending at the city limits. The heart of Vedado centers around calles M and 23.

  6. Pay the price at night: Collectivo drivers are much more firm with the fares after midnight. They can up-charge anywhere from CUC$ 3 to CUC$ 6 per person. Skip the negotiations and ensure you arrive home safely.

  7. Take a local’s word for it: The best recommendations come straight from the source. Consider your host an expert and ask for directions or suggestions for tucked-away parts of the city to explore.

  8. Keep a stash of cash for transportation: Hired cars will take you anywhere — for the right price. Keep some cash aside specifically for road trips. Rides from Havana to popular destinations such as Varadero, Viñales, and Trinidad usually range from CUC$ 20 to CUC$ 30 per person each way. If you have four or more people in your party, try to work the price down for a group discount.

  9. Get lost: At The Glocalist, we believe that getting lost with intention serves a purpose. Just remember to bring a map to find your way out—Google or Apple Maps can’t help you here. Mark your ‘home’ starting point, then in a loop, work your way back. The key is to take your time and satisfy your curiosity.